Beer Review: Cellarmaker’s Under the Pine – West Coast Pale Ale
ABV: ~5.7% (varies slightly by batch)
Style: West Coast Pale Ale
Brewery: Cellarmaker Brewing Co., San Francisco, CA
From one of the most consistently creative hop-focused breweries on the West Coast, Under the Pine is Cellarmaker’s love letter to the classic Pale Ale, reimagined with a modern edge and their signature hop craftsmanship. This isn’t your grandfather’s pale ale — it’s lean, bright, resinous, and utterly refreshing.
- Appearance: Pours a pale straw-gold with a slight haze — not murky, but just enough to suggest it’s unfiltered. A frothy white head lingers with good retention, leaving rings of lacing down the glass.
- Aroma: The nose is a punch of pine needles, citrus peel, and wild herbs, true to its name. There’s a fresh-cut wood character — evocative of a hike through a coastal redwood forest — backed by notes of lemon zest, white grapefruit, and a whisper of dankness. The hop aroma is clean and expressive without being overbearing.
- Taste: It hits with a crisp bitterness up front, quickly balanced by a biscuity, lightly toasted malt backbone. The pine character is prominent — think Douglas fir tips and hop resin — but it’s harmonized by bright, pithy citrus and a subtle tropical flair (maybe underripe mango or kiwi skin). The bitterness is firm but never harsh, allowing the flavors to linger with a clean, dry finish.
- Mouthfeel: Medium-light body with a prickly carbonation that enhances its drinkability. It’s refreshing and snappy, perfect for a session without sacrificing complexity.
Overall Impression:
Under the Pine is a beautiful bridge that spans the divide between tradition and modernity. It recalls the classic Sierra Nevada Pale Ale roots but evolves them with new-school hop profiles and Cellarmaker’s dialed-in technique. At under 6% ABV, it’s flavorful without being fatiguing, making it ideal for multiple pints, preferably outdoors, preferably under the pines.