Beer Review: De Garde | The Kriek Cardamom Cuvée
Stats: Spontaneous Wild Ale | 5 Years in Oak (Sherry/Whisky) | Tart Cherries & Cardamom
Vibe: A sophisticated evening by a fireplace in a damp Oregon forest.
De Garde is known for their “wild” mastery, but The Kriek Cardamom Cuvée feels like a masterclass in restraint and evolution. Five years in wood is an eternity for most beers, yet this pour manages to feel vibrant while carrying the weight of its long slumber.
Appearance
It pours a stunning, translucent ruby, think stained glass or a deep Pinot Noir. The head is fleeting, a soft rose-colored fizz that settles into a fine ring around the glass, leaving behind minimal lacing but promising high-tonal acidity.
Aroma
The nose is a sensory playground. Initially, you’re hit with the “De Garde Funk”, that signature damp hay and earthy cellar note. But then, the layers peel back:
The Fruit: Bright, sour cherry skins and macerated berries.
The Spice: Cardamom is incredibly well integrated; it smells floral and slightly mentholated rather than “bakery-heavy.”
The Wood: Subtle wisps of toasted coconut from the whisky casks and a nutty, oxidative “rancio” note from the Sherry wood.
Palate & Mouthfeel
The first sip is a bracing, lemony tartness that immediately makes your mouth water, but the five-year aging process has rounded off the sharp edges.
The mid-palate is where the magic happens. The Sherry influence provides a savory, dried-fruit depth that anchors the zing of the cherries. The Whisky barrels contribute a faint caramel sweetness and a structured tannic grip that dries out the tongue. The cardamom acts as the “bridge,” tying the fruit and the wood together with a cool, herbal spice that lingers long after the swallow.
The Verdict
This is a slow sipper. It is complex, acidic, and profoundly “old world” in its execution. The cardamom could easily have overpowered the delicate wild yeast, but instead it acts as a seasoning, elevating the cherry to something more exotic and mysterious.